Gloria's features rich, exquisite gelato
You find the gelato at the front of the establishment as part of a market that also features Italian meats and cheeses. To the left is a step-down area with dining space and a stairway that also leads to an eating area. The decor is simple, even basic, but don't let that distract you from the food. A good deal of it — especially the sauces — are excellent.
Most of the people in my party ordered a pasta option where you choose the pasta and the sauce. By and large the pastas do not appear to be homemade, but all sauces are made from scratch. The arrabbiata sauce is robust with a spicy tomato flavor enhanced by a little parsley, garlic and red pepper. This is a nice choice. The quattro is a four-cheese delicacy with asiago, fontina, Parmesan and gorgonzola mixed in a perfectly light cream sauce. I ordered carbonara, which is listed as a cream sauce with pancetta and eggs. It was good, but the egg flavor was stronger than any carbonara I've tried before, and it reminded me of bacon and eggs. The finest selection was the tomato and cream-based salsa Rosata, which resembles the tomato basil soups that have become popular in most area Italian restaurants. You could open up a vein and just run it through.
We tried the Mormon tiramisu with chocolate, but it is a pale substitute for the rich, spongy original. Made without the traditional coffee granules or anything stronger, it becomes more of an average pudding. I recommend skipping it in favor of their tortes, cannoli, fresh fruit tarts, eclairs and — of course — the gelato.
GLORIA'S LITTLE ITALY — *** 1/2
Where: 279 E. 300 South, Provo
How much: Appetizers: $7.99-$14.99; Entrees: $8.99-$12.99; Desserts $3.75-5.75
Reservations not required
Phone: 805-4913
Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at charlene_winters@byu.edu.
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