Next spring's fashions get big, even bulky; they speak volumes
At the spring runway shows in New York City last month, a loose silhouette that de-emphasizes curves was a common theme.
Celebrity-favorite Max Azria presented sacky sundresses that billowed from shoulder straps. Marc Jacobs showed light layers with barely a waist in sight. Vera Wang's moody collection seemed miles from her white, form-fitting bridal gowns — layers of dark silks that billowed far away from the body. Even the body-conscious woman behind the wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg, loosened up.
For a time of year when weather urges us to wear less, I have to wonder: Was there a sale on airy spring fabrics?
Gone were the skinny, tight pants that have tested the limitations of Lycra the past few seasons — including the Audrey Hepburn-inspired black fitted pants currently being flogged by the Gap. For spring, pants will go baggy — really baggy in the case of Marc Jacobs, who featured low-hanging crotches. At Sass & Bide, pants were loose on top and tighter on the bottom. Belly-barers take note: The reign of the low-rise, gasp-and-look-away pant, which has been fading, is officially kaput.
This season is also darker, but don't anticipate a return to grunge. Spring is far more pretty and feminine.
When we see volume, we think '80s. But next season's clothes seem light enough to float, a feat not possible from fashions of the Boy George era.
Yet these gossamer frocks have swaths of camouflage if you have something to hide (like less-than-perfect abs or hips). They feel more forgiving, wearable and comfortable than supertight designs of the recent past.
In fact, fans of vanity sizing will find that they fit into smaller sizes because of the generous cuts.
But beware: Many of these same designs, with all that extra fabric draping free-form, can turn from floaty to tenty to amorphous blob really quickly, depending on the style and the wearer. They might still look best on those whose figures also worked in tight clothes.
Counteracting the effects of all that volume, models also showed a lot of skin.
Hemlines went mini-er (as usual, they'll be let down several inches before the garments hit stores next year). The roomier Von Furstenberg shifts hit well above the knee. Michael Kors' loose-fitting, sequined cocktail dress bared a lot of back and almost all of the legs. Tracy Reese offered a strapless dress that smocked dramatically out from the bustline (but you'd better have shoulders you want to flaunt).
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